Food And Wine Choice Advice From An Expert Wine Taster
By Chris Robertson, Mon Jan 2nd
Food and wine were meant to go together. In my big Italianfamily, no gathering was complete without plenty of both. Winterfeasts were easy for the food and wine lovers among us - ahearty red table wine is the perfect foil for most southernItalian dishes. A pitcher of table wine drawn from the cask inthe basement was the typical accompaniment to our everydaymeals.
Red, white or rose, Italian table wines are meant to be imbibedin the casual atmosphere of a family dinner. They are lightenough to be enjoyed even by the casual food and wineenthusiast, and robust enough to complement the full-flavoredrichness of smoked and barbecued food. Which leads us to thesubject of this little soliloquy - mixing and matching food andwine for the barbecue. My own tastes run to Italian jug wines,and if it was up to me, I'd tell you to just go out and buy ajug of Chianti and a jug of Lambrusco. It's what I grew up with,and I happen to love the little sparkle that a good Lambrusco(yes, they do exist!) adds to food.
In the interests of presenting a fair and educated view,however, I decided to check with an expert. Austin Liquor hasbeen voted Best Liquor Store in Worcester for the past 5 years,mostly on the strength of its weekly wine tasting. A Fridaynight tradition in Worcester since the late 1970s, each tastingoffers food and wine based around one or two specific vintages.I was directed to Richard Beams, Austin Liquor's resident wineexpert, and directed my question to him: "What food and winecombination would you recommend for a summer barbecue?"
I did get my recommendations - but I also got a wonderfuloverview of Rich's philosophy of choosing wines, especially forfun or everyday occasions.
"I don't think it's necessary for people to spend more than $12for a bottle of wine for an everyday dinner," he told me. "For aspecial occasion like an anniversary dinner, sure, you can spend$20 or more for a bottle. A barbecue is a fun occasion, though.For a barbecue you can get really good quality wine for under$12."
That may come as a surprise to those of us who have beenintimidated into believing that the only true quality wines comewith corks and high price tags.
Said Rich to that: "I like wine to be fun. It should be fun. Toomany people try to snob it up and break down the flavors so farthat it's not fun anymore. I advise people to find somethingthey like and enjoy it. I like to steer people to the lessexpensive wines that are excellent quality."
So what does Rich recommend to go with the food at a summerbarbecue?
"I like to recommend a nice, light Riesling, " he told me."Something crisp and fresh."
In fact,